Churros in China

Call me a spoiled American, but after three days, I was having a hard time handling the crazy area outside our hostel, so we switched to a Holiday Inn Express in a slightly cleaner part of the city. And ate at a French bakery for brunch :-) . It was awesome. Yes, Kelly, even I go for the western food occasionally.

We headed off on the subway to the Summer Palace. The subway in Beijing is very easy to use, much easier in terms of buying tickets than in Japan actually, but not nearly as comprehensive. The newer subway stations are like the airport, white tiles, look clean enough to eat off the floors (though I wouldn’t recommend it). The subway stations also all have security checks with bag scanners, though it almost seems voluntary at times, and no one actually appears to be looking at the monitors.

The Summer Palace was built as a retreat for the Emperors. Now it is a hot spot for locals to head to on nice days, so it was crowded with locals and tour groups (mostly Chinese), like much of Beijing. There are lots of people everywhere, all the time; in the subways, on the roads, at the sites we have been visiting. We have found that people in Beijing tend to be a bit pushy. For example, Ryan was in line to check out at a convenience store, and the woman behind him physically pushed him out of the way to check out first. We have both encountered similar actions multiple times. There is absolutely no concept of a line. I have no idea how British tourists with all their queueing deal with it here. Ryan and I have quickly learned to push our way through. But I digress. Back to the Summer Palace . . .

Like the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace is huge, encompassing the entire Kunming Lake and Longevity Hill. Ryan and I climbed the hill for some great views and less people, and ran across some people playing instruments and singing in a pavilion.
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We then headed up to the Tower of Buddhist Incense for additional good views of the palace, the lake, and Beijing.
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Next up was the Olympic Park. (There was a pretty cool IBM building right next to it, see the photo below). This was also hopping with activity; actors and musicians performing in the Bird’s Nest, some X-Games like motorcycle event, an international book festival, and the Fifth Beijing Olympic Park Food Plaza. Of course we had to walk through the book festival (all books were in Chinese) and to the food plaza (a little bit like Taste of Chicago, but less variety).
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Ryan got some fried shrimp. Then, since he had never had churros before, decided that this was the place to try them. Churros (called ‘Spanish fruit’ at the food festival) are really popular here. Other unexpectedly popular foods include roasted corn on the cob, baked sweet potatoes, and drinking yogurt served in jars.
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Peking duck was on the menu for dinner. We lucked out because the restaurant right across the street from our hotel got great reviews on TripAdvisor. It was delicious!
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Bugs of the Great Wall

Friday started at 7:30am with a pick-up in what appeared to be a 70′s era van for our trip to the Great Wall. The drive to the wall took us through parts of Beijing we had not yet seen, past lots of office buildings, high rises, some residential areas with apartments and Spanish style homes. At one point, the van stopped for a fireworks display in the street, celebrating what exactly we are not sure, but it was followed by a bunch of cars with similar decorations.

We visited the Mutianyu part of the Great Wall, the newest section built by the Ming Dynasty in the 1600s. There was a cable car available up to the wall, but you know us. Ryan and I hiked up to the 10th tower and then walked along the wall till about the 19th tower. The weather was absolutely beautiful. The wall is pretty amazing and offered some wonderful views. As Ryan wondered though, was the wall really needed? It seems like the mountains in this section would have been enough of a deterrent.
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Ryan captured some of the interesting creatures found atop the towers.
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The drive home was an adventure. Drivers here are absolutely crazy, and pretty much anything goes; driving on the sidewalks, driving on the wrong side of the road (at least until someone coming the other direction starts honking at you). And lots and lots of honking. Pedestrians also better watch out, cause they definitely get last priority. The cars here are very similar to in the U.S., fewer SUVs and pickups than in Texas, but many Audi A4s, Q5s, BMW X5s, 7 Series, and lots of VWs. They are definitely addicted to the American style of transportation.

After the long day at the wall, we grabbed some street food outside our hostel for dinner. We both tried some meatballs, egg soufflé like things, glazed fruit on a stick, and a fried starfish, though I later regretted eating most of it (no major sickness, just slight yucky feeling).
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Definitely not Ella approved

Breakfast was included with our room at the cafe next door. After sitting down, we noticed the food grade of the cafe, a “C”. Ryan decided to stick to the toast, while I ate the toast, eggs, and bacon, hoping not to regret it later. (Four days have since passed, and I’m feeling fine).
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Ryan’s breakfast was at a Starbucks in a mall (clean, bright, like the airport). As we both noted, this is the first Starbucks we have been in where the coffee doesn’t taste the same. While the mall was very clean, the bathrooms in the mall were not. So far, most of the bathrooms we have encountered in China are relatively gross. But then again, we may have high standards.

Off to our intended destinations, Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Whoever coined the phrase “Everything’s bigger in Texas” has obviously not been to Beijing. Both were massive and much larger than we had ever imagined. Workers were in the process of putting up bright flower arrangements in the square, and we just wandered around looking at the surrounding buildings and monuments. Beijing is full with beautiful flowers, both planted in the ground and arranged in the sculptures like in the square.
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We then crossed under the street to the Forbidden City and were immediately taken aback by its scale upon entering. This is the Hall of Supreme Harmony and the courtyard in front of it. North of the Forbidden City is Jingshan Hill, providing nice views of the entire city on a clear day.
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The many sides of Beijing (and it’s just day one)

Ryan and I arrived in the Beijing airport midday on Wednesday after a great trip on the Dreamliner (see Ryan’s previous post). The Beijing airport is beautiful. Built for the 2008 Olympics, it is spacious and clean with white tiles and high ceilings.
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Arriving at our lodging was a bit of a shock. The hostel itself was fine, sparse but clean, though I was a little put off by having to rent a towel. It is located in Nanluogu Xiang, one of the oldest hutongs in Beijing.  The street is full of shops and restaurants and street food, and close to major sites, which sounds ideal, but words cannot accurately describe the chaotic feeling.  It is very narrow, busy, crowded with pedestrians, bicycles, rickshaws, mopeds, the occasional car trying to make its way through, and noisy.  The dichotomy between the airport and the hutong, new vs old, and clean vs. not quite as clean feeling, is something we have found throughout our stay in Beijing.  Here is what the street outside our hostel looked like, and this wasn’t even busy!
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We headed out to the Beijing tourist information center, stopping for some tasty coffee and pie on the way (green tea cheesecake for me and chocolate banana cake for Ryan). Funny thing, which we’ve subsequently found in other places; there was a sign on the door indicating they accept Discover Card, but they would actually only take cash. The overwhelming feeling from the hutong (and probably Dramamine) quickly dissipated once we had some nourishment.

With full stomachs, we wandered around some other hutongs, found the tourist information center and booked a day trip to the Great Wall, and walked around the bar/restaurant area near the lake.  Wild squash seems to grow all around Beijing, including on the rooftops of homes in the hutongs.
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From Tokyo to Beijing: The Dreamliner

We can’t believe how quickly the Japan portion of our trip has flown by.  10 days with Jason and Kelly has been awesome, from summiting Mt. Fuji, to staying in a Ryokan, to eating some of the freshest sushi, to watching Japanese baseball history being made.  Definitely not an experience we will ever forget.

The transition to the next chapter of our journey is something I had been looking forward to since booking the 4 hour flight several months ago. United / ANA flight NH1255 aboard the Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner. Our takeoff was delayed first due to “cabin preparation,” second due to “flight preparation,” and lastly due to a “cargo door issue.” I chose to downplay the fact that the last battery fire incident was aboard an ANA Dreamliner.

Aside from these minor issues, he Haneda airport and ANA service was simply awesome. The service representative to traveler ratio seemed >> 1 which was a real treat for us deprived westerners. Even on this short 4 hour flight, we got the choice of western or Japanese meal. Nicole noticed that the stewardesses would regularly re-enter the bathroom to fold the TP ends into triangles.

The sky was clear at take-off and we got some impressive views of sprawling Tokyo with Mt. Fuji in the background.

Western Meal Japanese Meal

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[ Video with Mt. Fuji available, but too big :-( ]

With the carbon fiber construction, the wings seemed to flex a lot more during flight — perhaps providing better shock absorption? It was a very smooth ride although the interior was not as revolutionary an upgrade as we were expecting. The seats were still firm and mildly uncomfortable. The ambient lighting was nice. The large electronically dimmable windows were very cool. The bathroom was incredible: it had a window, enough room to walk around, a “western-style” toilet, full length mirror, and auto-sensing flush / faucets…

If you travel with a plethora of gadgets like JJM (and me), you would be happy. Each seat had an 8″ widescreen touchscreen monitor with all sorts of interactive programs, maps, flight tracking, seat to seat messaging, USB interface to charge and play your own electronic media, and a universal power plug for those of us that don’t carry around a cigarette lighter adapter any longer (that was the only option our AA 777 flight had from the states to Japan). I appreciate the courtesy our pilots extended by deviating from the ideal flight path which would have taken us over P’yongyang.

Flight Path

Definitely a highlight of the trip for me.

Arigato gozaimasu Japan!

I can’t believe our time in Japan has already come to an end!  We had a blast and will definitely miss travelling with Jason and Kelly.  If you guys want to meet us anywhere else on our trip in the next three months, we’d love to have you join!

Here is a list of some observations and unrelated comments about Japan, with input from Ryan, Kelly, and Jason.

  • All the taxi cabs have white lace seat covers.  Odd, and sort of uncomfortable when the taxi picked up our dirty selves after hiking Mount Fuji.  The taxis are also all square looking Toyota models we have never heard of; Super Deluxe, Royal Extra, and Crown.
  • Everyone is extremely kind and helpful.  We (when I say ‘we’, I mean mostly Kelly) stopped random people in trains and on the streets to ask for directions.  All of them helped, many going out of their way to show us the path.  We also had people coming up to us in stations asking if we needed help.
  • Japanese people are all rather slim.
  • Japan appears to be rather polite and orderly.  Everyone stands in line to board the subway, waiting for passengers to disembark before getting on.  This is a big contrast to Beijing (where we are now), but I’ll write more on that later.
  • As enthusiastic as Japan is about baseball, no one boos at baseball games.
  • Japanese pears are delicious!  Much better than pears we get in the U.S.
  • The ‘salary men’ all wear the ‘uniform’, dark slacks and a white shirt.  Reminds us of old Big Blue attire.
  • When leaving a store or restaurant, everyone working there yells ‘Thank you very much’, similar to a sushi restaurant in the U.S.  It’s nice.
  • I don’t remember what day it was, but Ryan was buying subway tickets and the machine said ‘Error’.  A man opened a little window above the machine and stuck out his head and hand, said something to Ryan, and pushed a button on the machine.  It was a hysterical!  Jason and Ryan compared it to 1) the wizard of Oz and 2) the orange juice commercials where the man sticks his hand out of the orange groves to give the customer O.J.

Too late for tuna and double sushi

Ryan and I got up at the crack of dawn to get to the Tokyo Tsukiji fish market on Tuesday. Jason was not feeling well, with some sinus issues and a fever, so he and Kelly slept in. All spots for the tuna auction were already gone when we arrived at 4:30am. Supposedly people were lined up at 3am! We still got to walk around a bit and see some of the fish and vegetable stands and get in line early at Sushi Dai, meaning the wait was only 45 minutes. The sushi was delicious and all the people working there were all very friendly. It really does look like a hole in the wall, with maybe a total of 15 stools around a small sushi bar. Here are some pictures of Ryan eating sushi he would never eat at home (salmon roe and sea urchin).
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After sushi, we headed back to the hotel to nap and do laundry. Ryan watched an awesome YouTube video on operating a Japanese washing machine in order to figure out which buttons to push. Gotta love YouTube! The four of us then headed out to the Meiji-Jingu Shrine and gardens, where we cleansed our hands and mouths before entering, as is the tradition.  The shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shokan.  They were both forward thinking leaders, introducing Japan to Western cultures and technology, and taking an interest in national welfare and world affairs.
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We walked down to Shibuya, the crazy people crossing, which was not as crazy as I had expected (I think it was probably off-peak hours), where we met Chen for another delicious meal of sushi!
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Typhoon No. 18, Sumo, and Shabu Shabu

The morning after the baseball game, we departed Chen’s place for a hotel — in the middle of typhoon No. 18.  We encountered a little driving rain and a lot of wind on our walk to the train station. As always, we thank the brave photo journalists would value getting “the good shot” over their own personal safety :-)

Video of Typhoon No. 18

The weather turned beautiful later in the day, and we attended some of the “big” matches during day 2 of the 15 day Sumo Grand Tournament.  These were the best wrestlers (no weight classes exist).  There’s a lot of ritual that went into each match, about 4-10 minutes, while the match usually only lasts about 5-10 seconds.  Here are some highlights:

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Oddly enough, physics did not govern the result of this match:DSC00614

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After an exhausting afternoon watching the Sumo tournament (eating french fries, ice cream, some cheesy doughy things…), we ventured out to find a Shabu-Shabu restaurant as suggested by a few of our friends who have been: Nicoleo, Emily, Peter, and RDB, and I think John and Shelley?.  It took a while but Kelly found the right stranger to ask on the street for a recommendation, who subsequently guided us over to Nabezo, a 4th floor shabu-shabu gem!  (the locals are so friendly)

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Similar to a Fondue restaurant, you cook your own thinly sliced meats in a communal pot of simmering broth (and veggies too).  Then you dip it in soy sauce and consume.  VERY TASTY!  I think a place like this would do well in downtown Austin.

(Note: restaurants are packed into many street front buildings and multiple stories making them difficult to find sometimes.  For this reason, I think, there were lots of people approaching us at the train station pitching their restaurant, and getting us to follow them there.  Creepy.)

HR Record

On the Sunday night that we got back to Tokyo, we met Chen and headed out to a baseball game: Hanshin Tigers @ Yakult Swallows.  Before leaving on our trip, JJM informed us that a player on the Swallows, Wladimir Balentien (from Curacao / Netherlands), was on pace to break the Japanese baseball single season HR record (I don’t know how he knows this stuff!?).  Well, guess what: he did it at the game we were at, and even added another in a 9-0 shutout against the Tigers!  Here are some pictures from the game (I’ve got the video of his at bat, but too big…)

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The rest of the game was good fun.  Maybe 33% of the stadium were rooting for the away team.  Every player had their own well-coordinated cheers coming from the stands.  The Swallows had a cheer that involved small umbrellas that nearly everyone in the stadium had.  Kudos to Chen for scoring us tickets to the game!!

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For the Sushi Zushi crowd, guess which one I had?

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– The correct answer is both.  I normally would only have the Sapporo, but after seeing this portable keg backpack contraption, I had to try the Kirin as well.  Although I should note, Asahi probably has the soft drink / beer market in Japan, and their Super Dry is a damn good beer

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On the exotic food note… Since meeting Edwin on Nicole’s trip to Argentina, she has not stopped talking about the chance to eat Takoyaki.  Octopus balls.  No, they are just a deep fried dough ball with a piece of octopus in the center.  She finally had them…and they were “delicious!”

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Bound to happen

It was bound to happen eventually, and it finally did.  We got on public transportation going the wrong way and took a scenic tour of the eastern part of Kyoto.  Ooops :-)   The roads on Saturday were relatively congested, so between that and the slight detour, it took us about one and a half hours to get from our hotel to Kyoto Station for the train ride to Osaka.

Once in Osaka, we headed straight to the Aquarium, which houses giant salamanders, penguins, dolphins (we saw a feeding time show), a ring-tailed coati, huge whale sharks, loggerhead turtles, and ocean sunfish.  For any Argentina CSC people reading this blog, remember the picture that A.J. had of some un-identifiable raccoon looking creature with an ant-eater like nose?  Guess I had to go to Osaka to find out it was a coati, which is a cousin of the raccoon.
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Ryan and I took a spin on the neighboring ferris wheel, with a view of Osaka from 112.5 meters high, and then met back up with Jason and Kelly for a tasty dinner of Japanese tapas and some french fries in what looked to be a local hangout.  Dad, you would appreciate that people here eat french fries and potato chips with chopsticks.
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We hopped the train to the train to the bus back to Kyoto and checked into a traditional ryoken for the night.  The traditional room had no shower or toilet; the only showers available were the washing areas in the onsen.  Ryan and Jason had no choice this time!