Catching up with a friend (Monday, Sept 10)

Even though Egg brought breakfast back to the Airbnb for all of us, we were still running late and missed the Pest walking tour. Instead, we wandered over to St. Stephen’s, where we walked around the cathedral and climbed (or road the elevator) up to the top for some good views of the city. The cathedral was built in the mid 1800’s and dedicated to, you guessed it, St. Stephen, the first King of Hungary. Maybe all domed buildings are like this and I just never knew, but I found it very interesting that the dome visible inside the cathedral was not actually the dome on the top.
DSC09660_blog    DSC09671_blogDSC09666_blog    DSC09668_blog

My, what a big organ

My, what a big organ

Stairs up to the top of St. Stephen's

Stairs up to the top of St. Stephen’s

Dome inside a dome

Dome inside a dome

Egg at the top of St. Stephen's

Egg at the top of St. Stephen’s

After St. Stephen’s (or maybe before, I don’t remember) we walked by the Dohany Street Synagogue. It was Rosh Hashanah, so no tours were occurring, but we could have entered to attend services. We were all surprised that they would let us in without having obtained tickets beforehand. Egg, Kate, and I considered returning on Tuesday to attend services, but decided against it, in favor of returning Wednesday for a tour instead.

Lunch was planned for the Grand Central Market, where we were also going to meet one of my CSC team members Attila. The bottom floor of the market was full of fresh foods one could buy, while the top floor was all food stands. Egg and Kate went up to scout it out, while Ryan and I met up with Attila. It was absolutely nuts upstairs! Egg and Kate were in line for langos, which Attila told us was really a snack, not a meal, since there was no meat in it :-). Attila also informed us that the food was all overpriced and only tourists go there to eat, though the produce and meat on the bottom floor looked reasonably priced. With that vote of confidence, we all decided to exit the market and find somewhere better to go.

Walking down the street we happened upon some restaurant that looked good, so we hopped inside. It was very helpful having Attila to help us decipher the menu and pick some good dishes. All around, everything was delicious! Egg and I shared some goose liver with tomatoes and potatoes, Kate got a pork knuckle, Ryan some beef stew, and Attila chicken with small dumpling like pastas. Attila and I caught up, and he suggested some good places for us to check out in Budapest. We also learned from Attila that Budapest has become the party city of Europe, with tons of bars and clubs, and a hot destination for bachelor and bachelorette parties. We planned to meet up again the following evening.

Attila and Nicole

Attila and Nicole

Bathroom sign at lunch

Bathroom sign

Delicious choice for lunch!

Delicious choice for lunch!

The afternoon consisted of a boat tour along the Danube and time spent on Margaret Island, a small island in the middle of the river. Once we found the boat, the tour was nice and relaxing. Apparently gates are different than piers, and our boat was departing from pier 7, not gate 7, so we spent 10 minutes walking in the wrong direction. The boat was almost empty, so we had good seats and good views of both sides of the river. The audio provided descriptions of the buildings and sites we were passing. We enjoyed Vienna, but Budapest is definitely the more scenic of the two cities.

Boat tour! Parliament in the background

Boat tour! Parliament in the background

Shopping center called the whale, due to the design

Shopping center called the whale, due to the design

Cave church

Cave church

Buda Castle

Buda Castle

Parliament

Parliament

Once at Margaret Island, we rented bikes and rode around the island for an hour. As I learned, this was a big step out of Egg’s comfort zone, because he doesn’t bike. I had no idea. But as he said, vacation is for getting out of his comfort zone. Either way, it was just like riding a bike, and he did great. The island is mostly park land, and we passed a ton of playgrounds that Sam would have loved. We also road through a small zoo, ruins of an old monastery, a musical well, and a Japanese Garden. Things of note about Margaret’s Island: 1) It houses a bunch of sports venues, including a huge swimming complex that has hosted international events and 2) There is a rubber coated running track around the entire perimeter of the island, which, from our observations, gets good use. We enjoyed some post ride beer and snacks and hopped back on the boat for the return trip.

Go Egg go!

Go Egg go!

Obligatory photos with the Budapest sign on Margaret Island.
DSC09737_blog DSC09732_blog

Eagle at the zoo

Eagle at the zoo

Gardens

Gardens

Egg picked a great place for dinner, the Karavan Food Truck Court. It was basically a small alley with about 10 food trucks. After a walk around, we decided on langos, purchasing beef and pork langos burgers (must have meat to be a meal) and two veggie langos pizzas. The food was all pretty good. The langos (sort of like fried dough) were much lighter than we expected, though it was still too much for us to eat. The pork burger was delicious, and the pizzas with goat or sheep’s cheese and arugula or roasted red peppers were also very good.  Ryan was also able to pick up another chimney cake for dessert.

IMG_1107_blogDSC09745_blog

IMG_20180910_204517_blog   IMG_1101_blog

Right next to Karavan was Szimpla Ruin Pub, that Attila recommended we try. Ruin pubs are a hot thing in Budapest, basically bars setup in run down buildings, with a lot of junk tables, chairs, and who knows what else. The Szimpla pub was almost like a pub court, with what appeared to be different bars setup throughout the building, one with a full bar, another with craft beers, a stage with music (actually the same group we had seen at the Budapest Wine Festival on Sunday night), and I think some place that had food, cause I saw people eating pizza. There was a garden in the middle of the second floor. Egg and Kate went in for a beer, Ryan and I just took turns walking through, since we had water bottles that were not allowed in. I wish we could have returned in the daylight to get a better view of the inside.

Map of Szimpla

Map of Szimpla

DSC09749_blog IMG_1106_blog

Garden inside the pub

Garden inside the pub

Ryan and I wandered by the Dohany Street Synagogue on the way home and saw the memorial tree of life.
IMG_1109_blog

Vouchers (Sunday, Sept 9)

Sunday morning, we packed up and headed out to catch the train to Budapest.

Tram in Vienna.  Great public transportation in both cities.  Another 'train' photo for Sam

Tram in Vienna. Great public transportation in both cities. Another ‘train’ photo for Sam

After wandering around the train station for a little while, getting some breakfast and coffee, we headed towards the track for our train. Good think we had left ourselves plenty of time, because it turned out we didn’t actually have train tickets, just vouchers for train tickets. Off to the automatic ticket machines and information desk. After trying to get the tickets from the machine multiple times, as it appeared we should be able to do, Egg realized that the voucher number was not the same as the order number, and was able to follow the link in the e-mail confirmation to obtain the voucher number, at which point the machine spit out our train tickets. The train wasn’t too crowded initially, and we were all able to stow our luggage overhead and get a good seat. The train ride was nice and went by rather quickly.

IMG_20180909_084110_blog

Lots of wind farms outside Vienna.  Ryan and I saw some on our hike also

Lots of wind farms outside Vienna. Ryan and I saw some on our hike also

Our train. Another picture for Sam.  Choo choo

Our train. Another picture for Sam. Choo choo

Once arriving in Budapest, we headed to the information desk in the train station to trade in our vouchers for the Budapest Cards. The e-mail vouchers indicated that the Budapest Cards could be picked up in the train station. Unfortunately, we had unintentionally purchased through a third party vendor, not directly through the Budapeast Card. The woman at the information desk was none to helpful either. It felt like talking with Turkish Airlines again. “Your vouchers are not in my system, I cannot help you. – Well, who can help us? – You need to go to the information desk in the center of Budapest. – Can you give us their number? – No, I don’t have their number. – Do you run off the same computer system as they do? – Yes. – In that case, why would they accept our vouchers. – I can’t help you, I don’t have your vouchers in my system”. After about 15 minutes of this, we decided to buy metro tickets and head to the office in central Budapest. The guy at the central office was very helpful, had studied abroad in Canada during high school, and took care of our Budapest Cards with no issue.

Off to the Airbnb. The original time to check-in to our Airbnb was 2:30pm. However, even with the Budapest Card voucher situtation, we were ready around 1:45pm and called our hosts Silvia and Gabor to see if we could check-in earlier, or at least drop our luggage off. The Airbnb was right around the corner from the information desk. Initially reluctant because Silvia was still cleaning the apartment, Gabor said we could come by now. Silvia met us and asked us, in her limited English, to all sit down at the table to wait for Gabor while she finished cleaning. Little did we know it would be an almost hour long check-in process. First, we had reserved the apartment (which sleeps 7) for only 2 people, and needed to pay extra money for all 4 of us. Egg and I knew when we booked it that the price was different with 4 people, but it always drives me crazy when the same space is more expensive for more people. I can see a little bit more money, required for the extra cleaning, laundry, etc, but it was almost 1.5x the original price for 2 people. Either way, it was still a good deal and in a good location, so we paid the extra amount in Euros. Gabor then talked at us for another 45 minutes. He gave us a tour of the apartment, showing us how to work the dishwasher, but not the washing machine, which would have been useful. He talked about the surrounding area and city sites. He explained how to work the air conditioner and that it would be 5 Euros a day if we used it. He tried to show us how to work the TV, but had problems, and we weren’t going to use it anyway. He told us that they have a shuttle service and can drive us to the airport if desired (we passed). I can’t even remember what else he told us, I think we just all tuned him out. Finally, he was done! We pulled whatever we needed from our bags and headed out to Buda Castle for the wine festival!

Through the rest of the trip, we realized that Gabor and Silvia must run Airbnbs as their primary business, and they also owned the apartment next door. It also appears that Silvia may be a doctor, as the tag on the door reads ‘Dr. Silvia S’. Maybe she cleans Airbnbs in her retirement?

Kate and Egg detoured to the Matthias Church, while Ryan and I stopped for some food cause I was getting pretty cranky.

IMG_20180909_160742_blog    IMG_20180909_160621_blog

Ryan and I were rather disturbed when the guy serving our food first sneezed and coughed into his hands and wiped his nose before handing us our plates. Yuck! Ryan was sure he getting a cold for a day and a half after that. Prior to heading onto the Buda Castle grounds, we detoured to the Labyrinth, one of the sets of caves under the Buda Hills. The caves were pretty cool, and I wish there had been more information on the history of them. Instead, there were wax opera figures setup with music piped in. Very kitchy, slightly ridiculous, definitely not something I would recommend to Budapest visitors. Back up to the castle grounds. We double checked this time, the confirmations we had were actually tickets for the Buda Wine Festival, not just vouchers that needed to be handed in somewhere else for tickets.

IMG_0993_blog

The Buda Wine Festival was a ton of fun! There were winery and food stands setup all over the castle grounds, plus small stages with music. We were able to get full or half pours for very reasonable prices and all enjoyed a lot of wine and good food. I stuck with the sweet dessert wines mostly, my favorite. Ryan was introduced to chimney cake, which he then proceeded to seek out for the rest of our time in Budapest. The Buda Wine Festival was a great place to celebrate the new year and Kate and Egg’s anniversary.

IMG_20180909_175200_blog    IMG_20180909_175137_blog

IMG_5532_blog

Chimney cakes

Chimney cakes

Parliament building from Buda Castle

Parliament building from Buda Castle

'Artsy' parliament building from Buda Castle.  Not sure how we did this.

‘Artsy’ parliament building from Buda Castle. Not sure how we did this.

Chain Bridge from Buda Castle

Chain Bridge from Buda Castle

On the walk home

On the walk home

Ryan's fascination with spiders

Ryan’s fascination with spiders

A good reminder on vacation

A good reminder on vacation

Like the London Eye (actually called 'Budapest Eye') but about 1/4 of the size

Like the London Eye (actually called ‘Budapest Eye’) but about 1/4 of the size

Shanah Tovah! Happy Anniversary to Kate and Egg! A great place to celebrate both!

Hiking (Saturday, Sept 8)

After the false start on Friday, Ryan and I set alarms to get up and out for hiking on Saturday. We packed up, took the first tram to the second tram stop, ate breakfast at a small cafe, and hopped on the second tram for the 45 minute ride out to the hike. Ryan took on planning for the hike, and had settled on Staadtwedenweg 1 (city hiking trail 1), up to Kahlenberg. Vienna is in the foothills of the Alps, and there are many close hiking trails. Like the previous days, the weather was gorgeous. Low to mid 70s and sunny. Most of the hike was on paved narrow roads, through peaceful suburbs with lots of greenery and big trees and vineyards. The last part of the hike led us off onto unpaved paths through the forest, with steep switchbacks.

Path through suburbs

Path through suburbs

Vineyards in the cemetary

Vineyards in the cemetery

Lots of grapes!

Lots of grapes!

More grapes

More grapes

Buddhist temple

Buddhist temple/shrine on the side of the path.  Looked slightly like a bunch of junk.

These markers were all throughout the hike, still haven't figured out their meaning.

These markers were all throughout the hike, still haven’t figured out their meaning.

At the top, I used what I described to Ryan as a futuristic toilet. I wish I’d taken a picture. The whole thing is metal. You walk in and close the heavy door, and push a button to lock it. The toilet is this massive basin, presumably so the guys can’t miss. There is a toilet seat up against the back wall, you grab the handle and pull the toilet seat down. Again, perhaps so guys don’t make a mess of it. After using the toilet, you raise the seat back up, and push a button on the right wall to flush. On the left wall, there is a soap dispenser and faucet built right into the wall, extending slightly over the massive basin. You push the button to dispense soap and turn on the water. When all done, another button is pushed to unlock the door. Overall, very clean and well maintained.

Also at the top, we walked around the small area of Kahlenberg, with shops, cafes, and a hotel. While we hiked, one could drive or take a bus up to the top. From the top, there were great views of Vienna and the Danube River.

We could have taken the little train up, but since when do we do things the easy way?  This train picture is for Sam.

We could have taken the little train up, but since when do we do things the easy way? This train picture is for Sam.

DSC09569_blog DSC09576_blog DSC09579_blog DSC09582_blog

The hike continued back down the mountain. We passed through a fun ropes course with ziplines and considered trying it out, but decided it was too crowded. Instead, we continued the hike and stopped at a cafe and winery overlooking the vineyard with the city in the background. What a delightful place for a break and some refreshments! It would have been easy to just sit relaxing there all day. Reminded me a bit of the wineries in Mendoza. Ryan had a glass of Reisling, while I tried the sturm.

IMG_0924_blog DSC09591_blog IMG_0922_blog

Raisins on the side of the road

Raisins on the side of the road

Post-hike beer at the bottom

Post-hike beer at the bottom

FaceTime with Sam when we got back to the apartment! He was involved in one of his favorite activities, moving water from one container to another, and then dumping it on Pumpa’s feet!

LCRH3083_blog

The evening consisted of Mozart’s Requiem in Karlskirche. Ryan and I grabbed an early dinner before hand and then wandered around the Busker’s Festival going on in Karlsplatz before finding Kate and Egg and going into the church. This was our first experience dealing with vouchers, which are quickly becoming a thing on this trip. Apparently we had vouchers for tickets for the concert, not the actual tickets. We had to stand in line to swap our vouchers for tickets, and then stand in another line to get into the church with our tickets. The church was a very majestic venue for the concert, and the symphony and choir were very moving. So moving that all of us except for Kate fell asleep at some point. I was probably the biggest culprit. Regardless, we all enjoyed. Afterwards, we watched a fire thrower perform outside the church (part of the festival), and attempted top stop for dessert/coffee/wine at a cool looking cafe on the way home. After sitting for 20 minutes with no one approaching us to take an order, we called it quits and went back to the Airbnb to go to sleep.

IMG_0947_blog IMG_0949_blog    IMG_0956_blog

Some art we passed by on the walk home

Some art we passed by on the walk home